A deep dive in to pearls.

Claire Hart
Oct 20
2 min read

Updated: Nov 7

I learned how to knot pearls in silk thread when I was in Hong Kong. I love the meditative and repetitive process. It shows off the pearls beautifully and gives a beautiful movement to the necklace. Importantly the knots protect each pearl, stopping them from rubbing together (which could result in pearls chipping or breaking) and helping them to last longer. If a knotted pearl necklace should break, only one pearl may slide off, rather than all the pearls tumbling out and falling all over the place.

Pearls should be worn regularly as they absorb oils from your skin which keeps their moisture in - they come from a living thing - improves their lustre and keeps them looking bright.

My pearls are hand knotted using silk threads. The pearl necklaces can be kept clean with a soft cloth after use, or occasionally with a damp cloth using a very mild detergent. Having said that they should not be worn in the shower, bath or when swimming, nor should they come in contact with chemicals or cleaners which scratch. They are soft by comparison with other gemstones, so need to be cared for gently, carefully stored so they aren't scratched. Well looked after pearls can last for many decades and even for generations.

from my new pearl collection featuring silver motifs of waterlilies

I love the lustre of pearls and especially when they are combined with precious metals such as gold and silver. How can you tell if a pearl is real and if it's more valuable?

You need to check the depth of the lustre, the reflection of light off the surface - a good pearl will have a thicker surface and therefore a better quality glowing lustre. You can try the 'bite' test, gently placing the pearl between your teeth and if there is a gravelly texture, it is the real thing. Most pearls would have irregularities and tiny imperfections - although if it is a very valuable pearl it would have a more regular surface. Mass produced uniform 'pearls' look the same and are too perfect in appearance. Real pearls should feel cool to the touch and then warm up when worn against the skin.

I've been listening to the pearls podcast from the V&A and understanding more about their history and cultural significance. Worth purchasing if you are fascinated by pearls as I am. Beautifully presented by jewellery historian, Beatriz Chadour-Sampson.

Here is jewellery featuring pearls and bamboo by Silvia Furmanovich, one of my favourite designers.